Which opensprinkler system free#

12VDC) solenoid valves or fish-tank pumps. It is designed to work with both 24VAC solenoid valves as well as DC non-latching (e.g. It is designed to work with 24VAC valves only.ĭC-powered OpenSprinkler uses a 7.5VDC low-voltage power adapter, included in the package. If you prefer wired Ethernet port and do not want built-in WiFi, choose version 2.3 (with acrylic enclosure, a lead time of 1~2 weeks may apply depending on stock).ĪC-powered OpenSprinkler requires a 24VAC sprinkler transformer (NOT included by default but can be purchased as add-on). Among the new features, 3.0 supports built-in WiFi, Over-the-Air (OTA) firmware update, and 2 independent sensors. Take a look at this Getting Started Guide for details of this version, and FAQs for common questions. You can choose between AC-powered or DC-powered version. The current version is OS 3.0, with built-in WiFi and OLED display.

Which opensprinkler system free#

OpenSprinkler is accessible through any modern browser or via our free mobile app available for most mobile platforms. OpenSprinkler is an open-source, web-based smart sprinkler controller for lawn and plant watering, drip irrigation, farm irrigation, hydroponics etc. This is currently looking like the best candidate for the controller: Station 4 (raised bed group 4) - 10 minutes

Station 3 (raised bed group 3) - 10 minutes Station 2 (raised bed group 2) - 10 minutes Station 1 (raised bed group 1) - 10 minutes

Programming would be something like this: So, when it is triggered, NO valve would lose power and fill reservoir but without the dosing step. There would also be a final programmed station that is connected to no outputs.

The time for this station could allow the reservoir to either fill completely or a shorter time would allow it to only fill partially. When powered, the timer will power nutrient pump for a short period of time and then shut off, but since this station is not part of Trigger Relay group (and thus no power to NO ball valve), water will be filling the reservoir and mixing up nutrients. Pump empties all of water (and nutrients) from res during cycle.Ĭontroller has a special station wired to a digital cycle timer. When a station is active, this valve closes and no water is allowed into res. Then program it either via a RPi or laptop/tablet.NO (Normally Open) electric ball valve would autofill the reservoir when no power/signal is sent from the controller. Also talk to a thermostat either a traditional 240V one or cleverer. That can hold a schedule, RTC and some relays. Presumably the best solution for heating control, like this lawn waterer, is to have a low power controller, such as an ATmega, and some custom electronics+ relays. This causes the poor relays to thrash, which in turn makes them sicker. So their repair is mostly replacing the relays (dead cheap).īecause of the logic states required to run a combie sick relays cause all sorts of problems cos a relay can contact, the board’s happy to switch the next device, and then earlier relay changes its mind so forcing the controller to backtrack. The 240V relays on the edges get trashed. What happens is that the extra-low voltage electronics lasts for ever. There’s a company that sells refurbed boards for a fraction of the price of a new one. Marginally OT, but the circuit board for a combie boiler wear out after a few years.